Men’s Hair Trends
Carmelo Guastella came to my attention early last year, although when I looked at his portfolio, I realised I had been admiring his work without knowing it was him for some time. If you follow men’s fashion, you are likely to have seen his work also. Carmelo has been featured in the majority of the leading men’s magazines since his move from Italy to London in 1999, including GQ, Esquire, L’Officiel Homme Brazil and Men’s Health to name just a few.
A hairstylist and authority of men’s luxury grooming, Carmelo is highly respected and rightly so. GQ named Carmelo as their Barber of Choice, well deserved recognition for a man who has forged a strong and impressive career. His career started quite young, as a nine year-old in Sicily as a barber’s apprentice and has continued with thirty years experience behind him. He has worked with some of the major players in the men’s luxury grooming industry including The Refinery, Gillettte, Unilver and Dolce & Gabbana. Carmelo was also appointed International Ambassador for Dove Men + Care Shave Range. His expertise in working with high profile individuals has not gone unnoticed with Robert Downey Jr requesting Carmelo to work with him in Avengers: Age of Ultron after being recommended by Sacha Baron Cohen, whom he had previously worked with for the Sweeney Todd movie in 2007 and styled for a portrait shoot a few years earlier with great David Bailey.
Carmelo predicts a growth in men’s interest in their image, some of which we have already seen and while somewhat slow, he predicts it will continue to steadily grow. This attention to self image in a social environment, alongside the more professional side in the workplace is great news. I personally think taking pride in your appearance is quite rewarding. Sharing his views on the latest in men’s hair trends through his observation of the most recent fashion events, as well as the wonderful streets of London which are full of inspiration, Carmelo references the trend in longer hair for guys, in particular length on top. Of course, he goes on to explain, “Your stylist needs to take into account a variety of factors, including age, hair type, profession, face and head shape, in order to achieve the perfect fit.”. Carmelo talks of three strong trends, The Rise of the Curls, The Versatile Fringe & Quiff and The George Clooney Haircut.
The Rise of the Curls
Carmelo talks about the rise of the curls which I am excited about. Maybe it’s because I have straight hair and the opposite fascinates me. Whatever the reason, it’s great to hear Carmelo speak of this trend.
Carmelo explains, “More men are moving away from the short back and sides and are now embracing their curls or waves. You need a good hairdresser/barber who understands your features and your hair in order to create a great shape.
This is a perfect look for guys with wavy or curly hair, grow your hair to a medium length and let your hairdresser sculpture what suits best your face shape, this is all about the natural looking waves or curls minimal products. This type of hair will be popular moving away from the buzz cut and instead showing your healthy looking hair.”
The Versatile Fringe & Quiff
Carmelo has referenced Oliver Cheshire for this look, the versatile fringe and quiff. Seeing Oliver at the recent London Collections: Men last month, I agree with Carmelo on this, a great look and one men will easily relate to.
“I have combined the fringe and quiff in one category because if the haircut is done properly, it can be styled both up, down on the forehead or somewhere in between. There is no perfection like we have seen in the past with neat side parts or perfect quiffs but we will see more dishevelled and natural styles. The length of top is about 10-12cm and the sides 1.5-2cm the cut is achieved with clever cutting techniques to create soft texture and minimal usage of styling products which enhances the natural texture of the hair without giving a greasy look.”
The George Clooney Haircut
I’m all for anything George Clooney, so this sparks my interest for obvious reasons. Carmelo references the George Clooney haircut as one of the important hair trends for men.
“I am seeing a rise in the George Clooney age category interested in improving or changing their hairstyles which they have had since they were kids. We know men are creatures of habits and this category is definitely looking for a change.
Still a long way to go as many men of this age still don’t care much about their hair opting for cheap haircuts which are noticeable, the George Clooney men age category will slowly break their habits opting for more stylish haircuts and learning how to style their hair.
Walking around London I notice guys with expensive cars, nice suits and a Rolex, but the haircut lets them down, you can notice the action and marks of the clippers the short sides are not blended well with the hair on top or the clipper has followed the head shape, the hairline is not natural all these are signs of a quick haircut.”
Exclusive Q&A with Carmelo for TMHS
I was fortunate to meet with Carmelo on my recent travels to London. We had a great chat over coffee and he showed me around the spectacular South Kensington Club which he talks about further below. Carmelo is such an interesting man, with a wealth of experience and a strong passion for what he does.
TMHS: When I met with you recently, you spoke of using scissors when you are cutting hair, rather than using clippers. Why is the use of scissors so important when cutting men’s hair?
CG: My philosophy is that the way a man chooses to style his hair is the ultimate expression of his personality. The reason of rarely relying on clippers, using scissors and comb instead is to enhance the client’s natural features, the haircut retains its style and shape for at least four to six weeks, and up to four months for longer styles. The scissor haircuts fall into place after washing, with minimal styling and products. Using scissors and comb is an art form.
TMHS: You are quite well groomed yourself. Who looks after cutting your hair?
CG: Thank you for the compliment. Being in the men’s grooming game does not mean I am a total vain individual, but I do look after myself, image is so important nowadays. I don’t have a one person that cuts my hair, I know exactly what I want and most of the time I cut my own hair, yes its possible and I may ask a colleague to fix the back of my head which I find a bit difficult myself.
TMHS: Tell me more of what you will be doing with the South Kensington Club. It is a beautiful place!
CG: I will be the South Kensington Club Barber making sure the Members look sharp, adopting my experience in Image consultant: Expert in men’s hairstyles, beard, stubble, wet shave and skin.
TMHS: Where can men go to have you look after their grooming? Best ways to contact you and also social media links.
Words by Sarah Crawford, Editor, The Man Has Style
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